Dermaplaning has earned a devoted following — and for good reason. A single pass of a blade across the skin lifts away a thin layer of dead cells along with fine vellus hair, leaving legs feeling extraordinarily smooth. But the technique differs enough from everyday shaving that diving in without preparation can lead to irritation, micro-nicks, or an uneven result.
This guide walks you through exactly how to do it safely, what your skin needs before and after, and how dermaplaning fits alongside — or is sometimes better swapped for — a dependable daily shave.
What Is Dermaplaning, and How Does It Differ from Shaving?
Both dermaplaning and shaving use a blade to remove surface hair, but the goals are different. Shaving targets terminal hairs — the thicker, darker strands that regrow visibly. Dermaplaning is aimed primarily at vellus hair (fine, light "peach fuzz") and the very top layer of dead skin cells, making it as much a physical exfoliation treatment as a hair-removal method.
The practical consequence: dermaplaning is done on completely dry skin with a lighter touch, at a shallower angle, and in shorter strokes. Wet, soapy skin — ideal for a safety razor shave — creates too much slip and raises the risk of cuts when dermaplaning.
Before You Start: Skin Prep
Good preparation is most of the work.
Stop actives for 5–7 days beforehand. Retinoids, AHA exfoliants (glycolic, lactic acid), BHA exfoliants (salicylic acid), and physical scrubs all thin the skin barrier. Running a blade over recently exfoliated skin increases sensitivity and the chance of redness or surface damage.
Cleanse thoroughly, then dry completely. Use a mild, fragrance-free cleanser and pat the legs fully dry. Any residual moisture causes the blade to drag or skip, disrupting even contact.
Skip it if your skin is angry. Active breakouts, open cuts, sunburned skin, eczema flares, and keratosis pilaris during a reactive phase are all contraindications. Dermaplaning over compromised skin risks infection and worsens irritation.
What You Need
- A sterile, single-use blade designed for dermaplaning (or a fresh, sharp safety razor blade used at the correct angle — see below)
- Bright, even lighting
- Clean, dry skin
- A gentle fragrance-free moisturizer and SPF for aftercare
Avoid reusing blades. A dull edge drags rather than glides, which increases friction and the risk of redness.
Step-by-Step: How to Dermaplane Your Legs
1. Work in sections. Start at the lower leg and move upward in small zones — shin, calf, thigh. Manageable sections let you maintain consistent pressure and angle throughout.
2. Pull the skin taut. With your free hand, stretch the skin gently upward or to the side. Taut skin gives the blade a flat, even surface and significantly reduces the chance of catching a fold.
3. Hold the blade at 45 degrees. This is the defining difference from shaving. A 45-degree angle skims the very surface of the skin rather than cutting into the hair follicle. Too steep an angle removes more than intended; too shallow and the blade skips.
4. Use short, feather-light, downward strokes. Strokes of two to three centimetres work best. Apply almost no pressure — let the weight of the blade do the work. Move in the direction of hair growth to reduce the chance of irritation.
5. Rinse and moisturise immediately. After finishing a section, rinse with cool water and apply a hydrating serum or moisturiser containing hyaluronic acid or ceramides. The skin is freshly exfoliated and will absorb moisture readily.
Aftercare: The 48 Hours That Matter
Dermaplaning removes the uppermost layer of dead cells, which means the living skin beneath is briefly more exposed and reactive.
- Avoid sun exposure. Freshly dermaplaned skin is more susceptible to UV damage. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF — ideally SPF 30 or higher — if going outdoors.
- Hold off on actives for two to three days. Retinoids and chemical exfoliants applied too soon can cause significant irritation.
- Skip tight clothing immediately after. Compression against freshly treated legs can cause friction redness.
- Moisturise morning and evening. A ceramide-rich formula helps the barrier recover quickly.
How Often Should You Dermaplane Your Legs?
Most dermatologists suggest spacing sessions three to four weeks apart. The skin needs time to complete its natural cell turnover cycle before the treatment is worth repeating. Dermaplaning more frequently than this can over-exfoliate, leaving the barrier sensitised and reactive.
Dermaplaning vs. Safety Razor Shaving: Choosing the Right Tool
Dermaplaning and safety razor shaving are not interchangeable, and knowing when to reach for each one is useful.
Dermaplaning excels when the goal is texture improvement — that glass-skin feeling on the shins, or smoother skin before self-tanner application. It is a monthly ritual rather than a weekly routine.
For consistent, close hair removal on legs with any meaningful terminal hair growth, a quality safety razor is the more practical everyday tool. A safety razor starter kit delivers a close, even shave without the precise-angle demands of dermaplaning, works on wet skin with a shave gel or bar, and can be used as frequently as needed without over-exfoliating.
For a full map of which technique suits which body area, the shaving by body area guide walks through the considerations zone by zone.
The two approaches work well in combination: a monthly dermaplaning session for exfoliation and smoothness, and a safety razor for regular hair removal in between.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Using a dull blade. A blade that has been used for regular shaving has a different edge geometry after that use. Use a fresh, clean blade every time you dermaplane.
Pressing too hard. The most common error. More pressure does not mean more exfoliation — it means more irritation and a higher risk of surface trauma.
Dermaplaning over dry, rough patches. Areas of very dry skin, rough texture, or active keratosis pilaris need extra caution. These patches have uneven surfaces that disrupt blade contact and can cause catches.
Skipping SPF. Forgetting sun protection after dermaplaning is a reliable route to post-inflammatory pigmentation, particularly on darker skin tones.
Dermaplaning is a satisfying technique when done correctly. The key is patience with preparation, a light touch on the day, and consistent aftercare. Used alongside a quality safety razor for everyday shaving, it rounds out a complete leg-care routine without any single step doing more than its job.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is dermaplaning the same as shaving your legs? No. Shaving targets terminal hair on wet skin; dermaplaning removes fine vellus hair and dead skin cells on completely dry skin at a 45-degree blade angle. The tools, technique, and frequency are all different. Dermaplaning is primarily an exfoliation treatment; shaving is primarily hair removal.
Can dermaplaning cause ingrown hairs on legs? Dermaplaning does not alter the hair follicle, so it is unlikely to cause ingrown hairs directly. However, if you are already prone to ingrowns, keeping the skin well hydrated and doing gentle exfoliation between sessions helps minimise risk. A sharp safety razor blade, changed regularly, is also less likely to cause ingrown hairs than a dull or clogged one.
How often should I dermaplane my legs? Once every three to four weeks is the general recommendation. This aligns with the skin's natural cell turnover cycle and avoids over-exfoliation. Dermaplaning more frequently can leave the barrier sensitised.
Should I dermaplane or shave my legs first? If you are combining both practices, shave regularly as needed and schedule dermaplaning as a separate monthly session — not on the same day as shaving. Give dermaplaned skin at least two to three days before any blade contact again.
Can I dermaplane if I have sensitive skin? With caution, yes. Pause all actives (retinoids, AHAs, BHAs) for at least five to seven days before the session, use the lightest possible pressure, and prioritise aftercare. If your skin is currently reactive — redness, visible irritation, eczema flare — postpone until it has settled. When in doubt, speak with a dermatologist before starting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is dermaplaning the same as shaving your legs?
No. Shaving targets terminal hair on wet skin; dermaplaning removes fine vellus hair and dead skin cells on completely dry skin at a 45-degree blade angle. The tools, technique, and frequency are all different. Dermaplaning is primarily an exfoliation treatment; shaving is primarily hair removal.
Can dermaplaning cause ingrown hairs on legs?
Dermaplaning does not alter the hair follicle, so it is unlikely to cause ingrown hairs directly. However, if you are already prone to ingrowns, keeping the skin well hydrated and doing gentle exfoliation between sessions helps minimise risk. A sharp safety razor blade, changed regularly, is also less likely to cause ingrown hairs than a dull or clogged one.
How often should I dermaplane my legs?
Once every three to four weeks is the general recommendation. This aligns with the skin's natural cell turnover cycle and avoids over-exfoliation. Dermaplaning more frequently can leave the barrier sensitised.
Should I dermaplane or shave my legs first?
If you are combining both practices, shave regularly as needed and schedule dermaplaning as a separate monthly session — not on the same day as shaving. Give dermaplaned skin at least two to three days before any blade contact again.
Can I dermaplane if I have sensitive skin?
With caution, yes. Pause all actives (retinoids, AHAs, BHAs) for at least five to seven days before the session, use the lightest possible pressure, and prioritise aftercare. If your skin is currently reactive — redness, visible irritation, eczema flare — postpone until it has settled. When in doubt, speak with a dermatologist before starting.
Last updated: 2026-06-17